North Coast Trail Cape Sutil – San Josef Bay (6 days / 70 km)
As part of a month-long Vancouver Island expedition in August 2023, two friends and I hiked the North Coast Trail from Cape Sutil to San Josef over 6 days. We chose to skip the inland Shushartie Bay to Cape Sutil section to save some time and because we had heard it was a bit of a slog. Otherwise, we took the standard route along the northern tip of Vancouver Island and then south out to San Josef Bay. We added a day hike from Nel’s Bight to explore the Cape Scott lighthouse and the area on the very northwest end of the island.
The trip was 6 days of beach camping, climbing up and over coastal headlands, finding odd ocean trash, missing purported whale sightings, clambering over muddy and gnarly roots, and listening to the endlessly crashing waves of the Pacific. Although the days weren’t short and the terrain did, at times, present challenges (rocky beaches, marshy grasslands, and so so so much mud), wild camps on the beach always felt worth it by dinner time. Sunset was usually accompanied by whale spotting or a game of cards. We only got rained on once but didn’t see any bears or wolves. Overall, the NCT is a beautiful and slightly less trafficked trail that is certainly gaining popularity.
Trip Completed: August 2023
Trip Summary
Location: Cape Scott Provincial Park, North Vancouver Island
Traditional Territory: This route takes place on the traditional territory of Quatsino and Kwakwaka’wakw A̱wi’nagwis
Maps & Resources
Guidebook: Happiest Outdoors – North Coast Trail
Map: We bought a map from the Water Taxi office but unfortunately we left it in the car.
Interactive Map: Click here to view and modify this route using the interactive Route Planner
Permits & Reservations
Campsite Reservations: There are no campsite reservations in Cape Scott Provincial Park. All campsites are first-come-first-serve.
Permits: You can purchase a per-day trail use permit from the Water Taxi company. $10/person/night (August 2023) for camping in Cape Scott Provincial Park.
Know Before You Go
Season: This route is best done in the summer, typically between July and September.
Cell Reception: Unclear, as we did not try to connect.
Water: Water access is available at all established camps. Water is sometimes available during the day from creeks along the trail. All water must be filtered before drinking.
Wildlife: This trail is known for its wildlife viewing! We didn’t see any bears or wolves but people often do. We saw sea otters and whales out in the ocean.
Waste: The established camps have outhouses. Between camps, there are no facilities. No garbage, pack it out and Leave No Trace.
Outfitters & Shuttles
Outfitter: We had our own gear so we did not need to use an outfitter.
Shuttle: Our starting point at Cape Sutil is only accessible by water taxi. We used Cape Scott Water Taxi to get from Port Hardy to Cape Sutil. At the end of the trip, we used the North Coast Trail shuttle bus to get from the Cape Scott Trailhead to Port Hardy.
- Cape Scott Water Taxi: Port Hardy -> Cape Sutil ($160CAD/person in August 2023) + secure parking (~$40CAD)
- North Coast Trail shuttle bus: Cape Scott TH -> Port Hardy, ~2hrs with a beer/snacks stop (~$125CAD/person in August 2023)
Trip Report
Day 1: Cape Sutil to Irony Creek
We boarded the Water Taxi in Port Hardy at about 7 am and were excited by sunny skies and salty ocean spray on our faces while we chatted with the other passengers on the boat. The other passengers were being dropped off at Shushartie, whereas we continued on another 30 minutes or so to Cape Sutil.
The boat left us on the rocky outcropping at Cape Sutil and we headed west over the Cape Sutil headland. Simple route finding gave way to rocky beach crossings, whalebone sightings and our first encounters with intertidal-zone life on the NCT.
We made camp at Irony Creek along the beach. The waves were calm enough for us to go for a dip before dinner. Outhouses, a water source and a bear box are located central to the designated campsite.
Campsite: Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight), wild campsites along ocean front on sandy surface.
| Total Distance | 8 km |
| Elevation Gain | 91 m |
| Campsite Reservation | Permit, No Reservation |
Day 2: Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek
After walking along the sandy beach of Shuttleworth Bight, we went back inland for a bit and used the cable car to cross the Strandby River. Be very careful when pulling it across, it’s easy to get your hand caught in the pull rope.
From here, the route alternated between rocky beach crossing and coastal headland, always tracing the shoreline and easy to navigate. Along the way there’s a swing set up!
We camped at Laura Creek amid the kelp and driftwood. It was unfortunately too rocky to swim. Outhouses, a water source and a bear box are located central to the designated campsite.
Campsite: Laura Creek Camp, wild campsites along ocean front on pebbly-sand surface above the tide line.
| Total Distance | 13 km |
| Elevation Gain | 111 m |
| Campsite Reservation | Permit, No Reservation |
Day 3: Laura Creek to Nel’s Bight
Much like the previous two days, we continued to hike west along the coast and inland when needed. After a few hundred metres on the beach, we went south and inland to go around Nahwitti Cone (and cursed the mud with all we’d got). Although a short distance (~5 km), this section around Nahwitti Cone is time-consuming as you navigate the eroded and mushy trail.
Finally, we popped out at Nissen Bight, rejoining the shoreline. Here, we broke for lunch, a swim, and an unsuccessful attempt at some salmon fishing.
We crossed the 1.2 km of beach and turned south, entering grassy marshlands where a former Danish settlement was. Then we continued for 2 km until we reached a junction for San Josef Bay.
We turned right (west) to continue 4 km toward Nel’s Bight. This campsite had outhouses, and a bear box located at multiple points around the designated campsite. The water source is to the far west. Note: The decomposition of algae in the stream makes the water a yellowish-red colour. It’s safe to drink (with filtering) but it will be yellow!
Campsite: Nels Bight. This is a popular and “busy” campsite. Head northeast along the beach to find more privacy.
| Total Distance | 13 km |
| Elevation Gain | 196 m |
| Campsite Reservation | Permit, No Reservation |
Day 4: Nels Bight to Cape Scott Lighthouse
We left our tents set up and went west across Nels. We first went up over the headland into a coastal cedar forest and then popped out onto Experiment Bight (2 km).
Next, we crossed the rocky beach, going inland again to reach Guise Bay (+2 km). Guise Bay was my favourite beach on the whole trip. It feels like a hidden beach on the South Pacific. The water is definitely not as warm but the protected bay is an ideal spot for swimming.
Afterwards, we continued onto the lighthouse via the old road and ended up on the northernmost point of the island (+2-3 km). Water is available here, whale watch from the Cape Scott lighthouse over lunch. Return the same way.
Campsite: Nels Bight, as before. Note: Camp could be moved to Guise Bay which is absolutely stunning and much quieter than Nel’s.
| Total Distance | 13 km |
| Elevation Gain | 294 m |
| Campsite Reservation | Not Required |
Day 5: Nels Bight to San Josef Bay Campsite
We backtracked to the junction for San Josef Bay (~4 km), passed Hansen Lagoon and re-entered the forest. At the junction, we turned south and trekked out 12 km along a very well-trodden “highway” trail.
Both Fisherman River and Eric Lake Camp are good lunch spots. Upon reaching the San Josef campsite junction, we followed the signs west towards the beach. We picked a campsite above the tide line and enjoyed beautiful views of the bay. There is excellent tide pooling and beach combing, if the tide allows.
We camped in the eastern section as it had already been a long day, but there’s another camp further west along the beach that is probably quieter. Outhouses, a water source and a bear box are located in the trees behind the designated campsite.
Campsite: San Josef Bay Campsite
| Total Distance | 18 km |
| Elevation Gain | 209 m |
| Campsite Reservation | Permit, No Reservation |
Day 6: San Josef Bay to Cape Scott Trailhead
The final day was super short. We retraced the trail back to the junction point and followed the signs for the parking lot. The shuttle (if you are using one) will be parked there.
NCT Shuttle Pickup: 12:30 pm from the parking lot. Stopped for snacks and beers in Holberg on the way back to Port Hardy.
| Total Distance | 3 km |
| Elevation Gain | 39 m |
| Campsite Reservation | N/A |
Reflections
The NCT is a truly unique and very coastal trail that we are lucky to have access to. The beaches feel wild and the inland traverses challenge your mental and physical stamina. The proximity to the Pacific gives it a cast-away feeling and the abundance of marine wildlife is stunning. The campsites are surprisingly established and the trail is maintained as much as possible by Parks. There are areas with boardwalks, a cable car, and ladders.
This trail isn’t for the first-timer though. Long sections crossing rocky/sandy beaches are taxing and lack of access to emergency services makes it very committing. Additionally, facilities along the trail are limited so a willingness to carry everything you’ll need and a good understanding of LNT is required. The access is also difficult as an expensive water taxi ride (and shuttle potentially) is required to reach the TH. Maybe naively, we expected this trail to be quiet but the campsites were full most nights.
Overall, hiking the NCT is an incredible experience and a wonderful way to connect with the coastal landscape in BC. With good preparation and the correct gear, the hike is very achievable in various itineraries. 6 days allowed for a slower pace and a day hike to the lighthouse. A classic!
Author Bio
Morgan Cooper is an Oregon transplant living in Vancouver, BC. I moved to Vancouver to attend UBC in 2018 and I have been enjoying the city and its outdoor spaces ever since. An avid backpacker and backcountry skier, I can most often be found on multi-day hikes and ski tours or having a beer on a patio in the sun.
Instagram: @themoregonian