La Vérendrye: Carrière Loop (#35) from Lac Nichcotea (63 km / 3 days)
This circuit offers an enjoyable experience with 16 canoe-camping sites positioned at around 4 km intervals. What sets this route apart is the flexibility it affords – you have the option to start your trip from Camping Nichcotea and conclude it at Camping Carrière, shortening the circuit by 25 km. This feature is interesting for those seeking a slightly shorter and more manageable trip. This circuit is well-suited to diverse preferences, rendering it an outstanding option for an unforgettable canoe camping adventure.
The circuit offers diverse experiences, particularly in the segment between Lac Darcy and Lac Carrière, which is less frequented and more wild. It’s an excellent choice for experienced canoe campers who don’t mind getting their feet wet. Ruisseau Carrière presents various obstacles like fallen trees, rocks, beaver dams, and small rapids, with their nature changing during the summer due to weather, water level and beaver activity.
The trip went smoothly, according to plan, and we had a really good time. The smoke from nearby wildfires created an eerie and gloomy atmosphere, leading to a quieter ambiance in nature and wildlife than usual.
Trip Completed: June 2023
Trip Summary
| Starting Point | Lac Nichcotea Campground |
| Ending Point | Lac Nichcotea Campground |
| Duration | 3 days / 2 nights |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
| Total Distance | 63 km |
| Portaging Distance | 1555 m |
| Number of Portages | 6 |
Location: La Vérendrye Wildlife Reserve (Vallée-de-l’or, QC)
Traditional Territory: This route takes place on the traditional territory of Omàmìwininìwag (Algonquin), Anishinabewaki ᐊᓂᔑᓈᐯᐗᑭ, and Cree (source).
Maps & Resources
Guidebook: No guidebook was used.
Map: Seqap Carrière Loop Map (PDF)
Permits & Reservations
Permits: Only a camping permit is required, booked through the Sepaq website or by phone (1-844-897-4980). You do not book specific campsites. At the time of writing, prices this year were $15.24/adult/night (taxes not included). Free of charge for children 17 years of age or younger in the company of their family.
Know Before You Go
Season: The first weekend of June was a good time for this trip. The mosquitoes were not that bad. The water level was still high enough so we were able to float over quite a few obstacles along the circuit. The water was surprisingly warm, so walking in Ruisseau Carrière with the water above our waists was not bad at all. The nights were cool and we slept really well.
In comparison, a few years ago, we did another circuit (Poulter – #15) in La Verendrye during the last weekend of May. There was still snow in some of the portage trails and ice on the edge of the lakes. The water was ice cold and during the night the temperature dropped below zero celsius. On the last day of the trip, the temperature dropped to around -5 Celsius and we had a mix of snow and rain. We were really cold during that trip, hence why we decided to pick a different date this time around. Next year we are planning on canoeing the Poulter circuit again because the scenery was breathtaking.
While the weather can play a big role in the overall experience of a canoe trip, we felt that early June was better than the end of May. The weather is usually a little bit warmer in June and the nights are not as cold, so we didn’t have to bring the bulky gear and clothes meant for colder temperatures. While there were a little bit more mosquitoes than during our last trip, we felt that this was worth the trade-off and the good old Off, the Thermacell and the bug nets did the job.
Cell Reception: There was no cell reception for the duration of the trip. The reception stops a couple of kilometres before arriving at Camping Nichcotea.
Water: Drinking water is accessible everywhere. Filter / treat / boil as usual.
Wildlife: There are black bears in the area. Consider bringing a food bag or a blue barrel to hang your food to be safe.
Waste: Garbage bins are available at the starting location (Nichcotea campground).
Outfitters & Shuttles
Instead of relying on an outfitter for gear, transportation, or a shuttle, I opted for a more independent approach. At Le Domaine, they offer rentals of canoes and gear. Customers have the flexibility to either pick up their rentals at Le Domaine and continue their trip to Nichcotea campground or take advantage of the shuttle service they provide. More details can be found on their website.
Trip Report
Day 1: Nichcotea Campground to Lac Strobile
During the first week of June, my three buddies and I embarked on an incredible trip. Our adventure began at the crack of dawn as we departed for Gatineau, eager to reach our destination with a four-hour drive ahead of us. Our goal was to get to the lake early and paddle a long distance on the first day. Our destination was the beautiful Nichcotea Campground.
Though there were some concerns about wildfires in the area, we took precautionary measures before setting out. We carefully checked the SOPFEU map to monitor the forest fire situation across Quebec. Fortunately, there were no fires close enough to disrupt our plans, allowing us to proceed.
As expected, we arrived early at Lake Nichcotea and wasted no time in getting started. By 10 am, we were already paddling across the tranquil waters, surrounded by beautiful scenery and a few fisherman boats. Despite the fact that there were a few motorboats, it was really quiet and felt like we were in a wilderness area.
Instead of following the usual path around the first big island on Nichcotea, where campsite 30-54 was located, we opted for a shortcut along the right side of the lake. This led us directly to the narrows around KM 5 on the map, on our way to Lac Desty.
Half an hour later, we encountered a fisherman near what appeared to be parts of an old bridge. We chatted for a while and he was nice enough to give us some tips on finding good locations to fish for pikes and walleyes.
We continue to paddle west toward Lac D’Arcy. We stopped at campsite 35-10 on Lac D’Arcy to eat lunch and filter some water. We took the opportunity to assess our progress and study the map of the circuit. We had already paddled almost 15 KM and we still had a nice little tailwind.
The day was still young, so we decided to press on, do the 300 m portage between Lac Giroux and Lac Strobile, and sleep at campsite 35-19. In our research when we planned the trip, we found out that depending on the level of the water, the section between Lac Strobile and Lac Carrière can be quite difficult. We decided it would be best to be as close as possible to this section and opt for an early start the next day. Upon reaching Baie Nord-Ouest on Lac Giroux, the portage trail was really easy to spot. The portage starts and ends with a short steep climb and drop, then levels off to an easy walk for approximately 200 m. The trail was well maintained and with the four of us, we completed the portage rather quickly.
A brief and enjoyable paddle later, we reached our desired campsite (35-19) at the north end of Lac Strobile at KM ∼24. The site was located among a stand of majestic coniferous trees and provided an ambiance of seclusion and tranquillity. The elevated position granted us a beautiful view of the lake. The campsite provided ample space to comfortably accommodate 4 hammocks and it was really easy to find well distanced trees to hang our sleep shelters.
By 6 pm, our camp was fully set up and we were sitting drinking well-deserved cold beers, cooking juicy steaks with the trusty old Whisperlite, as we shared laughter and caught up with each other enjoying the peacefulness of the wilderness and the beautiful scenery in front of us.
As the beautiful day slowly faded away, the blue sky transformed into a haze of thick smoke. The sun was fiery red and seemed to struggle to pierce through the smoky veil, creating a mesmerizing sight. The campfire smell added an unexpected element to the atmosphere, evoking both memories of cozy nights by the fire with friends and a sense of unease knowing the cause of its presence. We observed the sky with a mix of admiration and concern, appreciating the beauty of the moment while being mindful of the challenges posed by nature’s unpredictable ways.
Campsite: Campsite 35-19 (3), as described above, was beautiful, spacious, and had plenty of firewood and a thunderbox.
| Total Distance | 24 km |
| Portaging Distance | 300 m |
| Number of Portages | 1 |
| Campsite Reservation | SEPAQ Permit |
Day 2: Lac Strobile to Lac Camitogama
After a restful night of sleep, we woke up early to the sound of a loon echoing across the lake. It was a beautiful morning. Taking our time, we prepared a delicious breakfast of bacon and eggs accompanied by steaming cups of coffee. As we slowly ate, we discussed the planning of the day ahead of us. Around 9 am, we were slowly paddling north toward Ruisseau Carrière trolling with different lures hoping to catch something that would become our lunch.
A short paddle led us to the mouth of the creek and we crossed paths with a father and son who were also canoeing the same circuit. The first part of the creek between Lac Strobile and the first portage on the map (135 m to cross Route 38) was quite accessible. There were more obstacles than what was on the map, but we didn’t have any issues as the water level was high enough. We had to pull over two beaver dams, but other than that it was an easy paddle. Instead of getting out of the canoe at the first portage (135 m), we decided to cross under the road in the culvert.
Likely due to the water level, the creek resembled a strong R1 rapid. We quickly realized the abundance of rocks, and since we were using fibreglass canoes, we decided to exercise caution and opt for dragging the canoes through the creek instead, until we reached the next portage. Navigating through the creek presented its challenges as its depth varied from knee-depth to chest-depth. We had to exercise caution while carrying our gear across the wet rocks in the creek’s bed. The two other portages (200 m and 450 m) were narrow yet well-maintained. It took us a solid 3 hours to finally reach Lac du Stimulus. Despite being in good physical shape and travelling with minimal gear, this section presented its challenges. Nonetheless, we had our fair share of laughter and fun. Experiences like this create good memories.
Lac du Stimulus was a small majestic lake in the middle of the wilderness. The water was crystal clear and its quietness was relaxing. Paddling was a welcomed change since we were a little bit exhausted from dragging the canoes. We decided to stop for lunch at campsite 35-21. The site was small yet beautiful with a lot of coniferous, primarily spruces. According to the map, the site was suitable for one tent, and that description was quite accurate. The wooded area surrounding the campsite appeared to be flooded, likely caused by the water levels being higher than usual.
While this campsite had its charm, with the amount of water around, it was the perfect ecosystem for the mosquitoes to thrive. After a well-deserved rest, we continued towards Lac Carrière. Since it’s quite a big lake, we were hoping that the water was calm enough to cross the lake, as we were heading to the northeast side of the lake. As we slowly made our way out of the majestic serpentine river, we emerged in the southern bay of Lac Carrière.
While the day was still early, white caps had already formed on the lake, and the wind was strong enough to rock our canoes dangerously. To play it safe, we decided to stop at campsite 35-23 and wait it out. Fortunately, just fifteen minutes later, the wind died down, and we took our chances by crossing the lake straight through the middle, heading towards our next portage between Lac Carrière and Lac Camitogama (85 m). The portage was short and manageable, allowing us to bypass a short R1 rapid.
As time passed quickly, we found ourselves struck by the beauty of Lac Camitogama, particularly the narrower section between campsites 35-30 and 35-32. We decided to end our day at campsite 35-36, which, according to the map, was spacious enough to accommodate all our hammocks. The site lived up to expectations, with ample space and a pleasant variety of tree species. We set up camp facing west and enjoyed a beautiful sunset while eating dinner. The sun, still blood-red, served as a stark reminder of the worsening forest fire conditions. While we were enjoying our trip, the situation was beginning to make us eager to get back to the car.
That night, the absence of wildlife sounds made everything feel eerily “dead” around us, which was almost concerning.
Campsite: Campsite 35-36 (4), as described above, was beautiful, spacious, and had plenty of firewood and a thunderbox.
| Total Distance | 21 km |
| Portaging Distance | 870 m |
| Number of Portages | 4 |
| Campsite Reservation | SEPAQ Permit |
Day 3: Lac Camitogama to Nichcotea Campground
We woke after a quiet but restful night of sleep to an increasingly hazy sky due to forest fire smoke. While it wasn’t particularly hard to breathe, the smell was more pronounced, and visibility was significantly reduced. We decided to break camp and had a quick oatmeal breakfast before leaving. As we ate, the nostalgia of the trip coming to an end began to set in.
We set off after breakfast and had a short paddle before reaching our next portage. The lake was mirror-like, and the silence was striking—there was still no sound of wildlife, only the sound of our paddles in the water. It was mesmerizing. The portage was 385 metres long, meant to bypass a rocky section between Lac Camitogama and Lac Canimina. We scouted the area and determined that it might be possible to cross with a whitewater canoe, but given that we had fibreglass canoes, we opted for the portage.
The portage was long and tedious, with the trail becoming hard to spot around the midsection. It passed through an overgrown area of small trees and bushes, making the task of dragging the canoes and hauling gear a real workout. After some effort, we finally reached Lac Canimina.
The lake was still mirror-like, making for an easy and quick paddle across. We decided to stop for a quick snack and coffee at campsite 35-49. It was another beautiful site, with tall pine trees—definitely a good spot for a future trip. Then we continued toward our last portage, near Camping Canimina. Upon arriving at the portage trail, we realized that we could simply walk the road and retrieve our car, bypassing the 600-metre portage. Given the worsening smoke conditions, we decided to avoid the portage and drove the car to Camping Canimina.
Upon arriving at our truck, we noticed that the gate to the campground was chained, and there was a notice on our windshield indicating that the park had been closed earlier that morning. They were asking all campers and visitors to evacuate as soon as possible. We quickly packed our gear into the truck and left the park. As we drove away, near Maniwaki, we saw police cars blocking access to the park for incoming traffic. We were relieved to be almost home, though we couldn’t help but hope that the situation would improve soon.
| Total Distance | 18 km |
| Portaging Distance | 385 m |
| Number of Portages | 1 |
| Campsite Reservation | N/A |
Reflections
Overall, the trip went smoothly, with the exception of the forest fire situation. If you’re planning to take this route, I recommend being well-prepared for the portage between Lake Camitogama and Lake Canimina, as the trail is overgrown with trees and bushes, making it quite challenging.
Additionally, consider starting your trip at Camping Nichcotea and ending at Camping Canimina to avoid the final 600-metre portage. The serpentine creek section between Lac du Stimulus and Lac Carrière feels longer than it appears on the map, so be ready for a slow and more technical paddle. Lake Carrière is large with minimal cover from bays or islands, so it’s best to cross early in the morning to avoid wind and potentially dangerous whitecaps.
Author Bio
Benoit Roberge is an avid outdoor enthusiast with a deep love for canoe camping, kayaking, cycling, and running. He enjoys spending time in nature with friends and family, where he teaches his kids to appreciate and respect the great outdoors. Benoit is passionate about sharing the joys of camping and exploring nature’s beauty.