Strathcona Park: Golden Hinde via Phillips Ridge (6 days / 69 km)
The Golden Hinde is Vancouver Island’s tallest peak, standing with 100% prominence at 2,195 m. The access to this mountain makes any summit attempt challenging; the Phillips Ridge route described below is approximately 50 km out-and-back to the popular basecamp at Schjelderup Lake. And it’s not just the distance – to complete this trail, including the summit, hikers must climb over 4000 m of elevation, including some sections of exposed Class 4 scrambling. But the rewards more than make up for the challenge!
From the summit of the Golden Hinde, hikers are treated to perfect 360-degree views and, on a clear day, can even see the Pacific Ocean on both sides of the Island. The lakes along the way – Arnica, Carter, and Schjelderup – are all equally stunning, and taking the opportunity to camp somewhere along Phillips Ridge, we were spoiled with an unforgettable sunset.
Trip Completed: September 2020
Trip Summary
| Starting Point | Phillips Ridge/Upper Myra Falls Trailhead |
| Ending Point | Phillips Ridge/Upper Myra Falls Trailhead |
| Duration | 6 days / 5 nights |
| Difficulty | Advanced (Expert if you plan to summit) |
| Total Distance | 69 km (includes a 6 km side trip to summit Mount Burman) |
| Elevation Gain | 4717 m (includes 558 m for Mount Burman) |
Location: Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, BC
Traditional Territory: This route takes place on the traditional territory of the Nuu-chah-nulth people (source).
Maps & Resources
Guidebook: Island Alpine by Philip Stone
Maps Used: GaiaGPS App
Map:
Permits & Reservations
Campsite Reservations: Campsites are first-come, first-served. With the exception of Arnica Lake, there are no built-up tent pads.
Permits: This hike is outside of the “core areas” of Strathcona Park, so no backcountry permits are required.
Know Before You Go
Season: This route is best hiked during the summer and early fall months, especially if a summit attempt is planned.
Cell Reception: Once you turn west from Campbell River, cell reception dies off within a few minutes and remains that way throughout Strathcona Park. Some hikers report getting cell signal at the summit of the Golden Hinde, but we couldn’t find a connection.
Water: Arnica, Carter, and Schjelderup Lakes are great water sources. There are also a few creeks between the trailhead and Arnica Lake. Phillips Ridge is generally fairly dry, but there are sporadic meltwater tarns along the ridgeline. A few smaller and one very large tarn between Schjelderup Lake and the summit of the Hinde.
Wildlife: There can be black bears in remote areas on Vancouver Island, but none were encountered on this trip.
Waste: Outhouse at the parking lot. Pit toilet at Arnica Lake campsite. For other camping areas, including at Schjelderup Lake, follow leave-no-trace principles and either bury waste away from water sources or pack it out.
Outfitters & Shuttles
Outfitter: Not used for this trip. Strathcona Park Lodge, located 46 km north of the trailhead, can provide a comfortable place to stay on either end of this hike, but does not provide other services. The closest outdoors stores are located in Campbell River, approximately 90 km from the trailhead.
Shuttle: Not needed for this out-and-back trail.
Trip Report
Day 1: Phillips Ridge Trailhead to Arnica Lake (7.5 km)
We drove to the trailhead from our home in Victoria, which took around 5 hours, including stops for gas and snacks. To get there, we drove to Campbell River and then turned west to take the Gold River Highway (Hwy 28) into Strathcona Park. We arrived at the Upper Myra Falls parking area to find it busier than we had ever seen before, which shouldn’t have been surprising given that it was the Sunday of the Labour Day long weekend. After sorting out gear and talking to some hikers who had just returned from Phillips Ridge, we stepped off at 2:50 pm.
We had hiked to Phillips Ridge before, so familiar footsteps fell into place as the trail quickly bore us up and away from the hustle and bustle of the active mine. The noisy machinery quickly faded from earshot, overpowered by wind humming in the treetops and small creeks bubbling through the woods.
We ascended swiftly, the trees protecting us from the hot afternoon sun. We soon reached the first creek “viewpoint.” We couldn’t see the water, but we could definitely hear it. A few turns later, we found the creek again at a point marked with a wooden sign, dated 1985 by the Comox District Mountaineering Club. This particular sign was standing a year ago when we were here last, but the tree it was mounted on had since fallen, and it now lay on the ground in front of the creek.
A half hour later, we passed the second water access point. Slightly off the trail, it is well-marked by another wooden sign nailed to a tree. At this point, the switchbacks blended together, and the next hour passed quickly as we climbed. Familiar sights, such as a small rock slide bisected by the well-worn trail, drew us back to reality, but we soon returned to the grind. We took a break at the third water sign, sitting at 970 meters. As the sun sank lower, the air began to cool, providing some respite from the sweaty climb.
The trail eventually levelled out, and we broke out of the trees into a pretty meadow just before Arnica Lake. As we picked our way along, we noticed ripe wild blueberries growing happily on both sides of the trail. We picked and ate a few as we carried on towards the lake.
We were blown away by the gorgeous view as we approached Arnica Lake, despite having been here before. After a quick photo stop, we crossed the rocky bridge at the outflow of the lake. There is also a metal bridge a few steps further down the creek that was installed recently, but it has a very slippery bank on the far side and just isn’t as nice to cross over.
We circled the lake and packed down to get some water. After purifying our water, we decided to set up camp for the night on one of the wooden tent pads and started making dinner. After dinner, we went back down to the lake and enjoyed the golden hour views. The distant peaks were lit up in rose gold, and the calm lake reflected the mountains, trees and sky back to us. We were amazed to have the camp area all to ourselves. We sat down with a cup of tea and let the evening pass.
Campsite: Arnica Lake Campsite. Raised wooden tent pads, pit toilet, beautiful view across the lake.
| Total Distance | 7.5 km |
| Elevation Gain | +866 m / -25 m |
| Campsite Reservation | Not Required |
Day 2: Arnica Lake to Schjelderup Lake (21.4 km)
We rose early in anticipation of a long day ahead. We packed the tent by moonlight, cooked breakfast and watched the sun come up behind Mount Septimus. We hit the trail by 7:30 am, still shaded by the bowl around us. We hiked up towards the ridgeline in the cool of the morning, not getting hit by the sun until we gained the alpine on Phillips Ridge. It was a beautiful morning, with clear blue skies and the moon still bright overhead despite the sun. Both Mount Myra and Mount Septimus were clearly visible to the southeast.
The trail wound tightly through the forest on the lower slopes of the ridge but straightened out as the trees became sparse amidst the higher rocky terrain. About an hour into the morning’s trek, we caught our first glimpse of our destination, the Golden Hinde. Mt McBride and Marble Peak were also visible, scraping the sky to the north.
The wind howled over the ridgeline, keeping us cool as we hiked. We were amazed to see so many tarns full of water across Phillips Ridge. We took a short snack stop just before we were to reach the first steep ascent of the day, but were quickly chilled by the wind.
Moving on, the ground became more and more rocky. The ridge, which had been climbing relatively smoothly in the morning, now began to climb and fall rapidly as we plodded on. We followed the trail as it hooked north around the high point, then climbed its flank, and a knife ridge connected us onto the next section of Phillips Ridge. The terrain got a lot looser at this point, and we found ourselves picking our way carefully through fields of small rocks.
Eventually, the rocks cleared, and we continued our ascent towards the high point on Phillips Ridge, where the ridgeline turns north towards the Hinde. Climbing to 1730 m, this was the highest we would get today, a measly 470 m below our summit objective. We took a short lunch break here before following the ridge north.
The Golden Hinde now absolutely dominated the skyline, sitting directly between the bulk of the two ridgelines that creased the landscape. About 45 minutes later, we reached the popular viewpoint showcasing the Golden Hinde and the lakes below. Any hiker who’s been through the area has likely taken a photo here, as both Carter and Schjelderup Lakes are aligned with the mountain’s summit. Of course, we stopped for a photo.
The day dragged on from that point as the terrain got more and more hilly. Up and over the ridgeline we went, following the trail (or one of them at least, some areas had multiple trails worn in) down through gorges and over the high points in between.
Eventually, we reached it, the worst part of this hike: the terrible, soul-sucking “dirt chute”. It was our path down from Phillips Ridge to Carter Lake, and with no way to avoid it, we plunged downwards.
It’s hard to describe the dirt chute to someone who hasn’t hiked this trail. As you leave behind the open air and gorgeous views of the ridgeline, the dirt chute surrounds you with thick foliage, which, due to deadfall, must be navigated around, over, or, in some cases, under. All the altitude that you’d gained climbing Phillips Ridge is lost in an instant as you crash down into the valley below Carter Lake. Pushing through branches and slogging through muck, this section gives a completely different feel than the rest of the trail. Following the steep descent, the still-wooded trail turns and quickly ascends to Carter Lake, mocking the waste of your hard-earned altitude.
But the gleaming blue of Carter Lake breathes fresh life into every hiker when they finally see it. The sun was shining, and we were reinvigorated, ready to crush the trail!
We picked our way around the lake, following an easy and well-trodden trail along the western shoreline, making it to the far side in what felt like just a few minutes. After a short break at the north side of Carter Lake, we carried on towards Schjelderup Lake. The trail brought us along the eastern shoreline of a small glacial lake nestled below Mt Burman to our west. This unnamed lake is a gorgeous spot with its aquamarine waters, but sadly, the view escaped our cameras as the setting sun shimmered brightly across the surface.
Less than five minutes later, Katie got her first view of Schjelderup Lake. Standing on the cliffs above the deep blue waters, she finally looked up from her feet and was astounded. But time was not in our favour, so we took a couple of photos and carried on.
The route around Schjelderup navigates several boulder fields, where rock slides from the ridgeline above have littered the shoreline. We climbed over and around the huge stones, attempting to follow the barely-marked trail. But it’s impossible to get lost here, just keep the lake on your right. Slide zones were soon replaced by forested headlands, where we climbed up and over the high ground to continue on to the next rock field.
Half an hour later, we made it around the lake to find the camping area packed. Five tents were set up, with more people visible coming down from Burman Ridge to our left. We managed to find a quiet spot away from the others, pitching our tent near the drop-off at the north end of the lake, next to the creek that flows down into the Wolf River Valley.
After a quick “swim” (the log jam at the north end of the lake makes swimming incredibly difficult) to rinse off the day’s sweat, we ate dinner and watched the sun go down. The sunset was fantastic, the sky to both north and south shaded in orange, pink, and red hues.
Campsite: North end of Schjelderup Lake. There are multiple flat spaces to set up a tent (at least 6). Log jams can make the lake difficult to swim in. Incredible sunsets with the Golden Hinde as a backdrop.
| Total Distance | 21.4 km |
| Elevation Gain | +889 m / -834 m |
| Campsite Reservation | Not Required |
Day 3: Schjelderup Lake to Mt Burman Summit (6 km return)
We woke up slowly, read our books, and after a very late breakfast, we prepared for a day hike to Mt Burman.
We stepped off slightly after noon, heading west into the trees, and quickly found one of the many trails leading up to Burman Ridge. The multiple trails from Schjelderup Lake connected within the first couple of hundred meters, and then a single track drove upwards through the trees. The shade didn’t last long, and the forest soon gave way to an alpine meadow.
Travelling through the low bushes and across open rock, we made our way onto Burman Ridge, at which point we turned off the booted trail. The well-cairned path led northward towards the Golden Hinde, but we needed to head south for Mt Burman.
As we scouted the ridgeline to the south, we found a lightly travelled trail, complete with some sporadic cairns to lead our way. Following this path along the west edge of the ridge, we soon found ourselves climbing up a low 4th-class gully that brought us onto the ridgetop. The gully was relatively easy to climb, as many small trees and shrubs made for extra handholds as we scampered up the slope.
Fields of blueberries littered the lower slopes of the ridgeline, making for a snacky climb. Hands stained from the fresh sweet fruit, we clawed our way upwards to the rocky ridge above. Upon reaching the ridgetop, the traverse was very straightforward. Following high points and lightly cairned ascents, we stopped often to marvel at the views. Multiple tarns littered the ridgetop, providing ample water for easy camping areas.
As we approached the summit of Mt Burman, we found that the slopes got steeper, rockier, and far, far looser. We picked our route carefully, following faint tracks from those who had hiked this route before us, and some cairns that were left behind.
Slowly making our way upwards, we eventually reached the summit! A final quick scramble up an easy rock face was the last piece of the ascent, and the waiting view was breathtaking. A 360-degree vista of island peaks was arrayed before us, as the clear blue day gave us incredible visibility.
An hour at the summit passed in a flash. We ate lunch and took tons of photos, and took time to read the register. We were the 6th group up Mt Burman in 2020, with only one additional group who had made the ascent in 2019.
With the register signed and our bellies full, we turned to begin our descent. Now familiar with the route, we made quick time. The top of the gully that was our route down off the ridge surprised us when we arrived, as it still felt like we had just left the summit. Navigating the gully descent and eating more blueberries, we finally linked back up with the Golden Hinde trail and headed for camp.
We got back to Schjelderup Lake to find what had been a bustling camp 24 hours earlier now deserted. We relaxed in the calm by the lake, soaking our tired feet in the frigid alpine water. After dinner, we prepared for the following day’s grind, set our alarms, and went to bed.
At 2h20 up and 2 hours flat back down, we can’t recommend this overshadowed summit enough!
Campsite: Schjelderup Lake
| Total Distance | 6 km |
| Elevation Gain | +558 m / -558 m |
| Campsite Reservation | Not Required |
Day 4: Schjelderup Lake to Golden Hinde Summit (13 km return)
We rose early, knowing we were in for a long day…
A warm wind whisked us on our way as we hiked in the early morning shadows. We followed our footsteps from the day before up to Burman Ridge, but unlike yesterday, we followed the trail on the right and continued our approach to the Golden Hinde.
The traverse along Burman Ridge started as a long, smooth descent, aiming towards a low point where we would officially start our ascent to the Hinde! As we snaked our way down the ridgeline, the Hinde grew in magnificence ahead of us. The mountain absolutely dominated the skyline as we drew nearer, and it seemed to start leaning over us as we neared the east end of Burman Lake.
The descent became steeper as we closed in on Burman Lake and the BC Hydro chasm. This infuriating low point was blasted out by BC Hydro in the 1960’s in an attempt to divert the outflow from Burman Lake to the Wolf River Valley. This would have allowed them to add more water to Buttle Lake, creating a larger catchment area for the dam at Upper Campbell Lake. While some thick cables can still be seen as evidence of this ill-thought-out project, BC Parks stopped it before more of the area was destroyed. Nevertheless, the construction ripped out a deep chasm, which must be navigated to start the ascent of the Hinde.
At the bottom of the chasm, we reached our lowest point of the day – just below 1200 m. From there, we had nearly a kilometre of elevation gain to reach the summit!
We continued along Burman Ridge, now ascending quickly. The ridge lifted us above Burman Lake and soon deposited us into the south bowl of the Golden Hinde, shortly before 10:30 am.
The bowl was huge and strewn with loose rock – everything from pebbles to massive boulders that would dwarf a car! A very large tarn is in the middle of the bowl, but without any flat areas to pitch a tent, the spot isn’t suitable for camping. We found some shade from one of the bigger rocks for a break, to have a snack and reapply sunscreen.
We pushed on to escape the bugs that were buzzing around the bowl and travelled around the northwest side of the boulder field. We traversed the scree slopes above the bowl, heading slowly upwards and to the hiker’s right. Snaking our way up the scree, we searched for the best path. The rocks shifted beneath us as we climbed, sapping energy as we dug our boots deep into the loose ground for grip. Trending further to the right side of the terrain, we quickly found tracks from the busy long weekend prior. Picking our way across loose stones and through a dry river bed, we eventually reached the “SE gully” that gave us access to the southeast ridge of the mountain.
The gully ascent provided firmer ground than the scree fields, and we quickly found ourselves in a high alpine meadow. We marked the spot in our GPS app before continuing, as we read that it can be difficult to find the correct top of the gullies on the descent. The meadow quickly faded as we crossed the southeast ridge of the Hinde, replaced by another scree field that was fed by the southeast gullies: our way up. We climbed upwards, finding the base of the correct gully by its distinguishing white rocks at the top of the debris cone.
As we entered the gully, our path became steeper. At this point, we put away our poles and donned our climbing helmets to protect us from any rockfall.
Class 4 scrambling took us up the side of the mountain. The gully started at 1950 m, leaving only 250 m of vertical to the summit. We followed the main gully for about 100 m before we were cut off by a melting snow pack that blocked our climb. With no ice gear and the slope being greater than 45 degrees, we weren’t prepared for this snow ascent. But to the right of our gully, we found another route leading into a smaller gully that allowed us to bypass the snow and continue on our way!
Our detour traversed right across the face of the mountain, perilously exposed on a small shelf of rock. After traversing about 50 m, we entered yet another gully that took us further up the mountain. Unbeknownst to us, it angled back towards the main gully, and at the top of it, we were able to make a 10 m traverse back to the climber’s left to re-enter the main gully.
Back in the scree of the main gully, we resumed the normal SE Ridge Route towards the summit. The main gully led up and into a smaller gully that took us into the “amphitheater” where the summit burst back into view! Ascending the right face of the amphitheatre, we cleared the upper edge to be shown an easy Class 2 climb up to the summit itself. Minutes later, we were there!
We stayed on the summit for the remainder of the hour, reading the register and taking in the million-dollar view. Words really can’t do it justice, so take a look at our photos:
At 2 pm, we hit our “bug out” time and geared up for the descent, each taking a single pole. The loose scree was far kinder on the descent. We missed our detour gully and wasted half an hour climbing back up to the shorter traverse to bypass the snowfield. Thanks to our GPS mapping from the ascent, we eventually found the correct traverse and continued downwards.
The down climbing went quickly after that, and we soon found ourselves popping out of the bottom of the gully system. Getting out our second poles, we mostly boot-skied down the scree fields and were quickly back into the meadows. It took us a few minutes to locate the gully leading down off the southeast ridge (remember the one we said would be tricky to find?), but soon we were back in the south bowl and cruising down the scree.
We got back to the bowl at 4:15 pm following our summit, and Ryan took a much-needed dip in the large, clear tarn. We haven’t mentioned it yet, but it was easily 30 degrees C this day, and we had no shade for the better part of it. Partway along our descent, before getting back to the tricky-to-find gully, Katie completely ran out of water, and Ryan was not far behind. In hindsight, we should have refilled our water from the tarn in the south bowl before continuing to the summit.
We departed the bowl at 5:30pm and descended easily, the smooth ridgeline no comparison to the slopes we had down-climbed hours earlier.
Passing through the chasm, our descent ended, and tired legs slowed our pace as we began the climb back up several hundred meters to our descent point on Burman Ridge. Stopping only briefly to chat with another group of hikers on the trail, we raced home with supper weighing heavily on our minds. The sun, though falling low in the sky to our right, beat down on us as we climbed, feeling hotter than it had all day. We eventually made it to the descent point near Schjelderup Lake and dropped onto the shadowed side of the ridge. Almost precisely 12 hours after we left, we made it back to camp. Hungry, thirsty, and utterly exhausted, we made a quick supper and crashed into bed.
Campsite: Schjelderup Lake
| Total Distance | 13 km |
| Elevation Gain | +1545 m / -1545 m |
| Campsite Reservation | Not Required |
Day 5: Schjelderup Lake to Camp on Phillips Ridge (6.8 km)
We had a lazy morning following the previous day’s summit, and departed camp at 11:40 am under the sweltering sun. We took our time weaving around the shoreline of Schjelderup Lake, taking care to cross the rockfall sections.
On the south end of the lake, we took out our drone for some photos. The wind was finally calm, and the still surface of the lake afforded us a perfect reflection of the Hinde in its waters.
We quickly found ourselves back at Carter Lake, and snapped a few more photos as we skirted the shore. A quick lunch break in the shade at the south end of the lake had us fueled up and ready for our next section of climbing – we had to face the dirt chute again to regain Phillips Ridge. Aside from sadness, the dirt chute brought us one other thing: shade. We entered the darkness just after 2 pm.
The shade was somewhat pleasant, though it was no match for the hot, sticky air that stifled us as we climbed. The trees completely blocked any chance of a breeze, and we sweated hard as we fought for every step up the dirt chute. Eventually, the thickness of the air lessened as we neared the open ridge. Finally, we escaped the dirt chute and regained the top of Phillips Ridge at 3:30 pm.
Shade on the ridgeline was scarce, and the hot afternoon sun beat down on us as we walked, but we were finally treated to a cool breeze. Up and along the undulating ridge, we climbed and descended.
We stopped to refill our dwindling water in a small stream below a larger snow field, as the inescapable heat had us drinking constantly. Shortly thereafter, we found a nice spot high on Phillips Ridge to pitch camp. We set up the tent tucked into a small sheltered nook surrounded by some stunted trees and juniper bushes. In the evening sun, we had to reacquaint ourselves with bug spray, as the air was calm but the mosquitoes were not.
We were lucky to be just around the corner from a melting snowfield, complete with an icy pond. The freezing pool provided us with water that we needed for dinner, and for a frigid sponge bath to rinse the sweat off.
We cooked up a late dinner and ate as we watched the sun go down. Unbeknownst to us at the time, the Island was beginning to be blanketed in smoke from the wildfires blazing in Washington and Oregon. Although the aftermath of the fires was devastating, the smoke lent itself to one of the most beautiful sunsets we have ever seen.
Campsite: Wild camping on Phillips Ridge. Limited water from snowmelt on the ridge, depending on the season. Beautiful sunset views. Can have high wind exposure depending on the exact spot chosen.
| Total Distance | 6.8 km |
| Elevation Gain (only for backpacking) | +699 m / -265 m |
| Campsite Reservation | Not Required |
Day 6: Phillips Ridge to Trailhead (14.6 km)
We hit the trail at 9:30 am and followed the meandering path up and down the knolls of the ridge. We paused for a quick breath and a photo at the highest point on the ridge, noted on some maps as “Peak 1732” for its elevation. Along the way, we passed a few tiny snowfields on the north-facing sides of the ridge, far below our path.
Eventually, the ridge turned eastward, bringing us some relief as we knew that our path was all downhill from there. The wind that had wailed across the ridge a few days before was today but a whisper. The mosquitoes took full advantage and swarmed every time we took a pause. Shade became sparse as the sun rose higher.
We stopped for a snack just before 11. The miles passed by in a flash as our chit-chat distracted us while we descended the ridge, and we soon found ourselves walking through sub-alpine meadows as we neared Arnica Lake. We arrived at 12:30 pm, the lake bringing a taste of victory – and of lunch.
We took a quick, refreshing dip before eating our tasty tuna lunch. We set off from the north side of the lake at 1:15 pm, hoping to be back to the car by 3:30.
We followed the trail around and beyond the lake, down through the meadows and on to the switchbacks. We scampered down the hillside at lightning speed, making it back to the parking lot only minutes after 3:00 pm. Man, did it feel good to get those boots off!!!
| Total Distance | 14.6 km |
| Elevation Gain | +160 m / -1490 m |
Reflections
This was Ryan’s third attempt to summit the Golden Hinde. His first, more than 5 years prior, was one of the first times he had headed into the backcountry as the “more experienced” hiker/leader of a group. Ryan and his brother set out for the summit and ultimately underestimated the mountain, didn’t leave themselves enough time, and called off their summit attempt partway up the northwest ridge route.
This is a long, difficult, and strenuous hike. Anyone hoping for a summit attempt of the Golden Hinde should be prepared for the possibility of disappointment and go in knowing their personal limits so as not to put themselves in a position requiring rescue, as some hikers do every year. Route research must be done ahead of time, including, at a minimum, having pictures from a guidebook. Weather can also play a critical role in safety, and depending how long hikers take to reach the base of the mountain, long-range forecasts may turn out not to be accurate.
Careful planning, a perfect weather window, and ample experience contributed to our success in summiting.
Author Bio
Katie and Ryan are an adventurous couple living in Victoria, British Columbia. They have visited every Canadian province and lived for many months in most of them, but BC will always hold a special place in their hearts. They have many shared outdoors passions including hiking, rock climbing, and backcountry skiing. They have hiked over 1000 km together, with many more to come!
Website: theadventuretwo.com
Facebook: The Adventure Two
Instagram: @theadventuretwo
YouTube: @theadventuretwo2