Lower Madawaska River: Palmer’s Rapids to Griffith (4 days / 38 km)

Nestled in the Saint Lawrence River basin, the Madawaska River provides paddlers with one of Ontario’s greatest natural playgrounds. Highlights of this river include towering white pines, good fishing for pike and bass, and well established campsites; most sites are spacious enough for 4-5 tents. We can effectively split the river into three sections: the upper, middle and lower. The latter two offer a great opportunity to introduce new paddlers to white water when water levels are lower. This usually takes place during late spring and summer.

It’s important to note that middle and lower sections of the river are banked by both private land and park land. The Lower Madawaska Provincial Park runs from Aumond Bay, southeast of Quadeville, to just above the take-out at Griffith. Regardless of whether you choose to put in at Palmer’s Rapids or further down at Latchford Bridge, this river trip is a guaranteed good time!

Trip Completed: July 2023

Trip Summary

Location: Lower Madawaska Provincial Park

Traditional Territory: This route takes place on the traditional territories of the Omàmiwininiwak (Algonquin) and Anishinaabe people. More specifically, the Madawaska River was home to a familial Algonquin tribe known as the Omàmiwininiwak Madaoueskarini or “the people of the shallows”.

Maps & Resources

Guidebook: Madawaska & Opeongo River Whitewater Guide, published by Friends of Algonquin Park

Map: 031F05, 031F06, 031F03

There’s also an online paddling map you can access here.

Permits & Reservations

Campsite Reservations: No reservations required. Campsites are first come first serve.

Permits: No permits are required as this is a non-operating park.

Know Before You Go

Season: Anytime between June and August is a great time to do this trip.

Cell Reception: There is decent cell service at the Sentinel Cabin on Buck Bay and good reception at Crooked Rapids.

Water: Water is easily accessible. Be sure to treat your water by boiling or using either carbon or chemical filtration.

Wildlife: This is black bear and moose country. That being said, I’ve yet to see either across four different trips, and having chatted with other river users, they are rarely sighted. It’s still important to remain bear aware and take the necessary precautions to secure food and other smelly items. Beware of rodents on this river! Red squirrels and chipmunks have chewed through countless harnesses and PFDs to get at granola bar wrappers.

Poison Ivy: Beware of poison ivy as it is abundant near certain portages and campsites along this route. Because this is a non-operating park, we rely on paddlers and volunteers to maintain portages and campsites so be sure to follow good Leave No Trace principles. Check water levels here: https://wateroffice.ec.gc.ca/report/real_time_e.html?stn=02KD004

Waste: All campsites have thunderboxes, some in better shape than others. Bringing a trowel is highly recommended as some of the thunderboxes are near capacity… There is waste disposal available at Griffith. Be sure to pack out what you pack in.

History: The Madawaska was once a much wilder river than it is today. The river’s course would have looked entirely different through the eyes of the First Nations people who lived alongside it. Things changed forever with the arrival of Europeans and colonization. Furs and other provisions would have been transported along the Madawaska during the 17th and 18th century, after which timber became king. The Napoleonic Wars and the British Navy’s demand for ship masts created a boom in logging along the Madawaska through the mid 18th to early 19th century. What was once seen as an endless supply of old growth white pine was quickly cut down. Small settlements sprang up in the midst of the timber industry, and colonial settlers began working the land and establishing farms. Logging was no easy feat. In fact, it was one of the most dangerous jobs around.

Each spring, the log drivers would encourage the timber that had been cut over the winter to flow downstream towards the markets. Inevitably, the timber would pile up and create log jams. It was the work of the river drivers to poke and pry the logs apart using long pike-poles, a hooked tool called a peavey, and occasionally dynamite. Picture walking across a slick boardwalk after a recent drizzle. Now picture walking across a wet, sometimes frozen log in the middle of a river… It’s no wonder that so many young men lost their lives working on the Madawaska.

While many of these log drivers were buried in shallow graves with long gone wooden crosses, there remain some names etched in the stones alongside the river. These can be seen below Slate Falls at the end of the portage river right, and there’s also a small memorial river left. After the decline of the timber industry, a growing demand for hydroelectricity resulted in the construction of additional dams along the Madawaska, changing the flow of rapids and creating entirely new bodies of water like Centennial Lake in the 1960s.

Fun Facts:

Old growth white pines that miraculously survived the logger’s axe, ice storms, and wildfires can still be seen along the banks of the Madawaska today! Keep your eye out for these giants of the bush.

The Sentinel Cabin located at the campsite on the north end of Buck Bay is one of the oldest buildings in the park. It’s estimated to have been built during the 1930s as a trapper’s cabin and its door remains open to visitors today. Although, I don’t recommend sleeping inside it if you’re afraid of spiders.

Sources:

Outfitters & Shuttles

Outfitter: I guided this trip as an employee of Bear Creek Outdoor Centre, so we took care of all the outfitting and shuttles ourselves. However, there are a multitude of outfitters and shuttles available through: The Paddler’s Co-op, Madawaska Kanu Centre, Madawaska River Rentals and Greater Madawaska Canoe Rentals.

Shuttle: We drove a canoe trailer and separate passenger vehicle to Jessup’s campground, after which both vehicles returned to Bear Creek Outdoor Centre. They came back to pick us up at Griffith.

Trip Report

Day 1: Palmer’s Rapids to Aumond Rapids (15 km)

Palmer’s Rapids (CII) consists of two sets, the upper and lower. These are beautiful rapids where many paddlers come to learn and play. We put-in below Jessup’s Chute where there were plenty of folks running laps and having a blast! We ferried across to the portage river left where we scouted the lower section consisting of continuous Class 2 rapids with lots of eddies to pull into.

We went down ducky style, meaning one after another, leaving plenty of room in between each boat. This is an inviting set to play in as the easily accessible portage means you can run up and down all day if you want to. Both the upper and lower sections drop into large calm pools making it a great place to learn. If you’re not feeling up to paddling the lower set, you can take the portage river left which is just shy of 300 metres and makes for easy walking.

After the lower set of Palmer’s, you’ll be paddling a long stretch of flatwater that takes you past Latchford Bridge as you approach Aumond Rapids (CII). There’s a nice island from which to scout Aumond, and it makes for a great lunch spot as well. Aumond is a straightforward run river right of the island; pay attention that you don’t go over the ledge to the right of the tongue and that you avoid the rocks in the outflow. After making it through the first set, you’ll be faced with three more straightforward Class 1 rapids. As long as you stay focused, you should easily be able to avoid any of the rocks.

Campsite

There are three campsites river left just past Aumond Bay. You’ll quickly spot the orange marker of the first site, but I tend to avoid this one if possible. It’s a very steep entry and once the granite is wet, it becomes slippy and hazardous very quickly. You’re better off paddling on towards sites 2 & 3 which aren’t so visible until you get close.

All three sites can accommodate 5-6 tents and have thunderboxes, although you may want to throw up a privacy tarp at the second site since the thunderbox is out in the open and close to the best tent sites. The views from these sites are obscured by cedars but the sites themselves are nice, although they do get quite buggy as you’ll seldom get a good breeze here.

Total Distance	15 km
Portaging Distance	0 m
Number of Portages	0
Number of Rapids	2
Campsite Reservation	No reservation is required

Day 2: Aumond Rapids to Rifle Chute (6 km)

Day 2 of this trip is easily the most exciting. After a short flatwater paddle from camp, you’ll quickly come onto the first rapid in what’s known as the Snake section. In total there are seven class 2-3 rapids along this stretch, all offering their own unique thrills and challenges.

First up is Island Rapids which can be scouted either from the island in the middle of the left and right channels, or from the hunt camp river right. River right is almost always the way to go, and much more enjoyable. This rapid can change a lot depending on water levels and on this trip, we powered through a large wave and out the other end. To portage, I recommend going over the centre island, it’s around 75 metres.

After you’ve knocked off Island Rapids, the rest of the rapids come at you in quick succession. Next up is Dog Leg (CII), an unassuming but slightly technical Class 2 that requires attentive rock dodging.

You’ll hit a quick swift on your way to The Narrows, another CII/CII+ depending on water levels. More precision is required at higher levels, but this is another relatively straightforward rapid that allows individuals to choose their own line for the most part. We usually scout these from our boats but there is a trail river left to scout Dog Leg, and a trail river right to scout the Narrows.

Exam Time (CII) is next on the list, and as the name implies, this is a culminating performance of the rapids that precede it. There are all sorts of lines to be had here, follow the flow. There’s a good area to scout this one river left.

If you pass the test, you’ll quickly approach “la pièce de résistance”, Rifle Chute (CIII)! If this one doesn’t get you pumped up, nothing else will. Due to the steep elevation loss of this Class 3, there is some serious wave potential that can send the bow of your boat airborne. Be ready to brace for a huge thwack when you reconnect with the wet stuff. Park your boat at the start of the portage on river left and get a good look at this one before dropping in. Once you’re through you can set up camp and run Rifle to your heart’s content! We also like to go for a swim through the swift just downstream of Rifle.

Campsite

There are three excellent campsites at Rifle Chute, two on river left and one on river right. The Boundless School recently redid the first campsite river left and it is stunning! There are acres of space and an amazing view of the river. There’s also a newly built thunderbox at the second site river left.

Total Distance	6 km
Portaging Distance	0 m
Number of Portages	0
Number of Rapids	7
Campsite Reservation	No reservation is required

Day 3: Rifle Chute to Crooked Rapids (8 km)

Once you take off from Rifle Chute, you’ll run the small swift downstream visible from the site. Another 400-500 metres downstream you’ll find Split Rock (CII/III), an exhilarating class 2-3 depending on water levels. The left channel is only really runnable in higher water. Approach this rapid river right and stop at the island to take a look as this isn’t a run that you can scout adequately from your boat.

Find a marker while you scout that you can use when you’re making your run. If you’re not lined up well as you approach, you’ll need some quick reactions to right yourself. This is a really fun rapid to blast through, and there’s usually a solid train of 4-5 good sized waves. Should you take on too much water here, there’s a shallow sandbar in the pool to your left where you can stop, dump some water out and get back in before taking on the lower portion of the rapid.

There’s a hard ledge on the far left, so be sure to approach from the right side, watching out for a nasty rock at the finish. Once you’re through you’ll run through a small swift another 200 metres or so downstream.

Next up is Raquette Rapid (CIII), likely the most technical rapid of the entire trip. This is a solid class three that requires real finesse. As you approach, keep the first island to your right, after which you’ll want to stick yourself in between the next two islands. You’ll notice another island ahead where there’s a campsite. Hug the right side of that island and pull into the small, shallow rocky bay where the portage for Raquette begins.

Old iron tie rods from the logging days are visible here in the rock. This is a very short portage, but the end can be a little tricky with exposed roots and rocks so watch your footing. Take a good look at Raquette and see if you can spot the “can opener” at the bottom. This thing is aptly named so don’t hit it! You’ll want a skilled bow paddler for this one to make quick and precise moves as you make your way through.

Very shortly after Raquette, you’ll round the corner to your left and hit a class 1 with a fun wave train. You’ll be paddling flatwater for just over 2 kilometres before you reach Buck Bay. Older guidebooks point out a “Dangerous Rock” in the middle of the bay that makes for a good chuckle when you see it. It’s worth pulling over to the campsite river left where you’ll find the Sentinnel Cabin, built by trappers back in the 1930s. This is a great spot to camp under towering white pines with lots of room to spread out, or just have a nice lunch.

Another 2.5 km of flatwater gets you to Slate Falls, an unrunnable series of ledges and drops with deadly undercuts. There are portages river left and river right, just make sure you approach carefully. The portage river left is a little longer at around 350m but is relatively flat and easygoing. The portage river right has a very steep and muddy bank to climb from the get go, but there are some incredible artifacts at the end.

Once you land on the beach, make your way back up towards the portage trail, looking to your left for rocks with carvings commemorating log drivers who lost their lives at Slate Falls. You’ll encounter a swift about 1 kilometre downstream of Slate Falls, after which you’ll quickly close in on Crooked Rapids (CI). Crooked is a mixed bag of Class 1 rapids that can be a real bump and grind in low water.

Campsite

There are a few campsites at Crooked, one of which is found along the portage trail if you’re in a real pinch. Due to the road access to this spot, it quickly fills up with a mix of paddlers and off-road enthusiasts, especially on weekends. You’ll want to get here early to secure a spot. The best sites are on river left adjacent to the ATV trail. Watch out for poison ivy here. There are thunderboxes across the trail and up the hillside, but at least one of them is due for replacement soon.

Total Distance	8 km
Portaging Distance	350 m
Number of Portages	1
Number of Rapids	4
Campsite Reservation	No reservation is required

Day 4: Crooked Rapids to Griffith (9 km)

The last day is mostly a flatwater day. After you make your way through the rest of Crooked, you’ll be paddling the flats and begin to notice the return of cottages along the river. After about 3.5 km, you’ll come to Wadsworth Rapids (CI) which is a continuous Class 1. This fun little set feels like the speed boost pads on Mario Kart.

Another 3 km downstream you’ll come to Buck Ledge. Approach river left and follow the flow, keeping an eye out for the ledge itself.

After Buck, you’ll quickly descend on Highland Falls (CIV) which is split into two channels. The right is a Class 4, and unrunnable in an open canoe. The left channel is a series of ledges and drops that’ll take more paint off your boat than put smiles on faces. I’ve rarely seen enough water running through there in the summer to make it enjoyable.

The portage river left is flat and no more than 300 metres long. Beware that you will be on private property at its terminus, so make sure to be respectful and keep it clean. After that you have a short paddle to Griffith, the take-out being a picnic area on your left as you approach the bridge. You can find Don Lewis’ Greater Madawaska Canoe Rentals just across the river off of Highway 41.

Total Distance	9 km
Portaging Distance	300 m
Number of Portages	1
Number of Rapids	2
Campsite Reservation	N/A

Reflections

I’m madly in love with the Mad! It’s an accessible river with lots of fun rapids, making it a great trip for newer paddlers. You can pack a lot into this trip without it being overwhelming, and the mileage is such that you should have ample opportunity to play and enjoy your surroundings. All that being said, beginners should never attempt a moving water trip by themselves. There are loads of local guides and organizations eager to help you enjoy this river safely. Take advantage of the awesome community that surrounds this place and have fun!

Author Bio

Iskren Mihaylov is a whitewater canoe guide and naturalist from Mississauga, Ontario. He studied as an Outdoor Adventure Naturalist with Algonquin College and currently works as an outdoor educator. In his spare time, he spends hours following animal tracks on his snowshoes, paddling, trail running, climbing and cycling.

Instagram: @iskrenmihaylov