Killarney Provincial Park: Widgawa Lodge to Nellie Lake (3 days / 28 km)
The Nellie Lake Route is a flatwater paddling route located in the Northern section of Killarney Provincial Park. The access point is found just outside the official park boundary at Widgawa Lodge in Whitefish Falls, ON. The lodge has their own launching fees so be sure to contact them ahead of time to make the necessary arrangements. They also allow onsite camping which is a great option considering the lengthy drive (most people) have just getting there.
This is a challenging canoe route with long, steep, rocky portage trails and almost guaranteed headwinds in one direction or another. The route is not suitable for novice canoe trippers. It’s suitable for paddlers who enjoy the feeling of isolation in a remote area and is a must for anyone interested in following in the footsteps of the Group of Seven.
Trip Completed: September 2022
Trip Summary
Location: Killarney Provincial Park
Traditional Territory: This route takes place on Anishinabewaki and Mississauga traditional territory (source).
Maps and Resources
Guidebook: Top 50 Canoe Routes of Canada by Kevin Callan.
Map: Unlostify; Killarney.
Route Planner: Click here to view and modify this route in the interactive Route Planner.
Permits and Reservations
Campsite Reservations: Reservations must be made through Ontario Parks reservation system.
Permits: Permits can be picked up at the Widgawa Lodge.
Other fees: Widgawa Lodge charges their own launching fee.
Know Before You Go
Season: The best time of year to visit this area is (in my opinion) during Fall colours. Alternatively, I would recommend going when the weather is warm to take advantage of swimming in the gorgeous, clear water.
Cell Reception: None at the lodge and none along the route.
Water: There is easy access to drinking water.
Wildlife: Given the remoteness of the area, wildlife sightings are a definite possibility. There are black bears in the area as well as elk, moose and your typical woodland creatures found in this region.
Waste: There are thunderboxes at each campsite. There are no garbage facilities available at the lodge so be prepared to take your garbage home with you.
Outfitters and Shuttles
Outfitters: Widgawa Lodge offers outfitting and rental services.
Shuttle: Not needed for this trip.
Trip Report
Day 1: Widgawa Lodge to Nellie Lake (14 km)
We arrived at Widgawa Lodge around 10am to find a note from the Lodge owner saying that they were offsite unexpectedly and wouldn’t return before our scheduled departure. Luckily, we had our own gear and were able to carry on without them so we parked in the designated parking area and launched our 2 canoes from the lodge docks. We paddled from the lodge through a narrow, creeky section before the landscape opened up into Charlton Lake. We hadn’t travelled very far down the lake before we noticed two black bears foraging along the southern shore, unbothered by our presence.
We continued on through Howry Creek and couldn’t believe our luck as we watched a massive bull moose swim across the lake, not far in front of our canoes. Despite the downpour we’d started in, the wildlife sightings so far made it all worth our while.
Portage from Howry Creek to Murray Lake (140 m): There was a short portage from Howry Creek to Murray Lake. There is almost no elevation gain on this portage, and the portage is flat and well-maintained, making it a super easy one.
We stopped for a quick shore lunch before paddling to find the 1400 m portage from Murray Lake into Carmichael Lake.
Portage from Murray Lake to Carmicheal Lake (1400 m): This portage trail isn’t easy to spot from the water so be sure to keep an eye peeled. Not only is this one not easy to find, it’s also just not easy in general. The trail is steep and rugged, full of large rocks and uneven terrain. This portage will make you appreciate thoughtful, efficient packing as well as supportive footwear and a good attitude in adverse conditions.
There is a lot of downhill travel on the first half of the portage and the second half is primarily an uphill slog. Make sure you account for time spent on this portage because you won’t be able to cover ground quickly.
It was a short paddle from the portage on Carmichael Lake over to Nellie Lake and given that it was late in the afternoon, we were looking forward to finding a campsite. We were eager to get to site 206, but as soon as we rounded the corner, we could see it was already occupied.
Note: Killarney Provincial Park now requires reservations by campsite, rather than by lake.
Campsite: We settled with site 204 which was also a gorgeous site on a rocky point, making a decent spot to jump into the water. There was enough space for our 2 tents comfortably, maybe even enough room for more. We planned to stay at the same site for 2 nights in order to explore the lake and the surrounding area the following day.
After setting up camp, we made some food and enjoyed good company around a fire before bed.
| Total Distance | 14 km |
| Portaging Distance | 1400 m |
| Number of Portages | 1 |
| Campsite Reservation | #204 – Nellie Lake |
Day 2: Rest Day (0 km)
After a leisurely morning exploring around camp, we packed a day bag and headed out to explore Nellie Lake. Campsite 206 was vacant by the time we reached it so we got out to investigate and immediately discovered why it’s the favourite on the lake. It’s large and flat with lots of room for many tents.
It’s well covered with trees so there would be ample shade as well as great places to hang tarps in rainy conditions. With a view looking down the lake as well as back up from where we came from, we considered packing up our current site to move but decided, in the end, it wasn’t worth the effort, despite it being the best site on the lake.
We carried on and paddled the shoreline, marvelling at the peak fall colours we were experiencing and headed back to site 205 to hike up the hill to find a spot known in a Group of Seven painting. Although there isn’t an official trail, it was easy to bushwack our way up to the top and did find the famous spot in which A.Y. Jackson sat to paint ‘Nellie Lake’.
We hiked back down to our canoe and paddled back to our campsite and despite the cool air temps, the crystal clear water was far too inviting and most of us opted for a very refreshing dip in the water before making some dinner and settling in for the night.
| Total Distance | 0 km |
| Portaging Distance | 0 m |
| Number of Portages | 0 |
| Campsite Reservation | #204 – Nellie Lake |
Day 3: Nellie Lake to Widgawa Lodge (15 km)
We started the day early knowing we had to pack up our campsite and tackle another lengthy portage before battling a headwind we assumed we should expect based on rumours we’d heard leading up to this trip. We said goodbye to site 204 and paddled over to the portage that was a stone’s throw away.
Portage from Carmichael Lake to Grace Lake (1.9 km): This portage was 2 km long and would take us from Carmichael Lake to Grace Lake. Although this portage is longer than the one we did on the first day, this trail is much easier to travel with flatter terrain and in general, is mostly downhill.
The paddle through Grace Lake was easy and uneventful. It is a remarkably beautiful lake and we all commented that it would be a great lake to camp on. We found a vacant campsite to have a quick break and a bite to eat before continuing to the next portage.
Portage from Grace Lake to Frood Lake (1.7 km): This was another long but relatively easy portage, as travelling west, the portage is entirely downhill.
As we travelled down the narrow section of Frood Lake, we were met with a fierce and relentless headwind. It wasn’t until we rounded the corner and entered the narrows at Willisville that it finally let up and we could take a breather while congratulating one another on a difficult paddle. From here it was a leisurely paddle back through Charlton Lake to the lodge.
| Total Distance | 15 km |
| Portaging Distance | 3.6 km |
| Number of Portages | 2 |
| Campsite Reservation | N/A |
Reflections
The weather we encountered wasn’t the best but the fact that everyone on the trip had a positive attitude and a willingness to tolerate it made the difference between it being a great trip and one I’d rather forget. I highly recommend getting in contact with the lodge ahead of time to discuss all fees involved to avoid any surprises on arrival. This is a trip you will want to pack light for but also have an extensive first aid kit as the portages really are no joke and there is no cell service to be found.
Author Bio
Hi, I’m Katie Boyd! I’m an avid adventure seeker, animal lover, bird nerd and overall outdoor enthusiast who loves whitewater and flatwater paddling and lives for exploring the backcountry with my husband, Jon and our dog Rosie. With a background in adventure tourism and an all-consuming passion for being in nature, I’m truly at my best when I’m in the bow of a canoe, rain or shine. Happy paddling!